. : Picture Hanging Systems Pty Ltd : .

The following advice is primarily aimed at queries regarding our 5 main hanging systems.

What system is right for me?

Go to our Products link for help in choosing the right system.
All the information specific to lighting can be found on the Lighting page

How do I describe what I want?

For all of our hanging systems we use the terms 'RAIL', 'HANGER', and 'HOOK'. These describe the main features that make up each system.

The RAIL (sometimes referred to as TOP RAIL), is simply the picture rail, to be fixed horizontally at, or near the top, of the wall, sometimes on the ceiling, and occasionally at an angle following a staircase, or on the top edge of a partition.

The HANGER is the vertical piece that hangs from the RAIL, either a steel or brass rod, a stainless steel cable or a crystal clear nylon line, easily adjusted from side to side, on to which you place...

The HOOK. All of them easily adjustable up or down, and most of them self-locking (just let go and they stay in place), so you can position your pictures perfectly and easily.

How do I select items that work together?

For a complete system you will need RAIL, HANGERS and HOOKS. Match the hanger colour, in the case of stainless steel and nylon cable this will be just the top bracket, to the rail, usually indicated by the last letter in the code i.e. BOW and BR15W (W=White).

The hanger length is indicated by the number in the item code i.e. AN15W meaning 1.5m. Is this long enough for your requirements? The bottom of the hanger needs to come down to at least eye level, as this would usually be the lowest point at which you would place your hook. Remember that stainless steel and nylon cables can be coiled up and hidden or cut off if they are too long but it is not desirable to have a rigid hanger visible beneath the picture.

The description by each hook tells you with which hanger it is compatible. When joining two lengths of Locator top rail, you will need a connector (LC), and if the end of the rail is exposed you need some endcaps, (LEW or LEG).

How much do I need?

There are two ways to measure how many rails you require. One is simply to measure each wall, in metres, add them all together, and divide by 2, (each rail is 2m long). When doing this you MUST add between 5 and 10% to the total, otherwise on the last section of wall you'll be fixing a long line of short offcuts together.

The preferred method is take each wall as a separate section. Say your first wall is 4.8m, you will need 3 whole rails leaving 1.2m of offcut. When measuring the next wall and it's ,say 5m, you will need 2 whole rails and the 1.2m offcut. As you measure each wall, keep a note of the offcut size so you can use it where appropriate. If a wall is 2.2m long it is best to use 2 pieces cut to 1.1m than a long and a short. With the Avanti and Boyer rails you will obviously need at least 2 fixing holes available per rail.

We recommend using two hangers and hooks per picture, so estimate the likely number of pictures you'll be displaying at any one time and multiply by two. Bear in mind that hangers and hooks are nearly always readily available so you can always order a few more if you need to. There is no minimum order or restrictions like 'You must buy a pack of ten'. If you have more pictures than you could ever hang at once, and they're mostly of an average size, allow four hangers per rail. You may want twice as many hooks than hangers as you can hang pictures one above the other on the same hangers.

How do I fix it?

Download instructions here (coming soon!)

The skill level required is similair to that of putting up kitchen cabinets or a row of shelves.

1. Decide at which level you would like the rail. Check around the whole room/area to see if that works everywhere, its better to have it all on one level. If there is a coving then tight up against that is ideal; the rail is then almost invisible (especially if painted to match). If there is no coving then it is recommended that the rail should be fixed two or three inches below the ceiling for the following reasons; it very difficult to physically drill the required holes so close to the ceiling and almost all ceiling lines are uneven and very difficult to follow with horizontal rails, the result will be irregular shadows or gaps above the top of your rail. For very high ceilings you could, of course, install the rail much lower, bearing in mind you may need to reposition the hangers frequently.

2. For the Boyer or Avanti systems, offer up the rail with a spirit level (where needed), and mark the holes. Drill the holes (No.6 drill bit), insert suitable plug (red plugs supplied for masonry), and fix with screws supplied. When you have marked the holes for the adjoining rail, drill erring towards the previous rail. This will ensure the join is nice and tight. Towards the end of one section or wall, make sure you won't be left with a section of rail long enough only for one fixing hole. You may need to cut the last two pieces.

3. For the Locator rail simply draw a straight, level line at the chosen height, make two marks 3" in from either end of where the first rail will be, (to allow for the connector, LC), then four more marks evenly spaced between. Make sure the drill is horizontal so as to fasten the nylon fixing bush (supplied) flat to the wall, allowing for successful 'snapping' on of the rail. Where there is a long run of continuous Locator rail or it runs wall to wall, a notch can be cut from the back lip of the hanging channel, at one end of each rail if necessary, to facilitate the insertion of the hangers.

The main principles for installing the Victorian top rail have already been described although there is a slightly higher level of skill required. The rail, however, is mitred at both ends so you can start from an internal corner of the room working from the left. The mitres at either end where they meet will enable a professionally concealed join. Tap the wooden plugs in to the screw holes with the grain in the same direction as the rail, then carefully take the top of with a fine toothed saw or rasp. Finally smooth over with fine sandpaper for an almost invisible fixing.